TPS 0. A question I cannot get a 100% answer on is can you piggy back off the Sniper EFI TPS for an electronic transmission? holley efi. All EFI systems need a large fuel filter to trap dirt and yet not reduce volume. I took some pics of the sensors page this morning after the car warmed up. Hope this helps! That 60% (which is configurable) is known as the Clear Flood TPS. We have never had that problem with any of the units that we have shipped. Going back to what you said. If you look down and your TPS is 2% then either your throttle is stuck slightly open (which itself will cause the idle-up) or RFI riding on the TPS signal has caused the ECU to see the throttle as open and, as a result, open the IAC to the hold position. You just need to go back through the IAC adjustment procedure now that idle timing control is enabled. For the first couple of drives it was running well, Sniper EFI was working exactly as advertised. Kind of cuts into forum time. How to replace the IAC in the Holley Super Sniper. - YouTube Either the Walbro pumps you are getting are not genuine (lots of forgeries being sold) or else you have something that is killing them. It will need to see it again and again. And all too often we don't take that extra step of using a piston stop to ensure that the timing pointer is on zero when the engine is truly and exactly at top dead center. (Do this while you are cranking.) It starts cold fine, its just when its hot. Sniper EFI Idle Tuning. I am having an idle issue (other than that is absolutely perfect). It reads 0 at idle and when I accelerate it goes up to 30 and makes a loud sucking sound that seems to be holding the car back. In the datalog the engine is running at 1400 RPM, TPS is zero, IAC is zero, CTS is 185F but it's in Open Loop. That initial rev is going to be determined by your IAC Park Position. Robust, feature-rich multi-port EFI systems offer easy plug-and-play late-model V8 engine swaps. The problem was RF interferance . Worst case you'll have a spare on hand, and if the TPS is faulty you will have solved the mystery. Your second problem should be a bit more concerning. and go to restart warm, it catches starts for a flick of a second, drops to a stall, or sometimes will catch its self and start. They tell you to ask call Holley. If you have an installation or start-up issue that is nagging you then please use the comments section to reply and we will gladly provide more information that we hope will be useful to you. Laptop Access Hi Chris I didn't get any traction on Holley.com Maybe give it a half-turn before you start it and then start and tweak. I have a Holley Sniper EFI with HyperSpark ignition. In the warm state IAC adjusted to a position of 2 to 10%. NOTE: Do not attempt to set the target idle speed and IAC position until the engine is above 160F! Well, it turns out that with the current firmware this throws the IAC control into a bit of confusion. :-). Take it a step at a time. Your suggestion to remove the PCV valve is just for diagnosis purposes, right? Installed sniper on 65 galaxie. Please let us know how this works out for you! If I read it correctly, the solution from the other thread seemed to fix a constant 300 or so RPM increase. I never had a problem with this. Holley EFI 543-105 Idle Air Control Motor Sniper EFI Update: Weeks Later, Do I Still Feel It Was Worth It? Idle IAC problems? - Holley Performance Products Forums If you don't have a working coolant temperature sensor then it will never bring the idle speed down. My sniper is doing two thingsFirst issue, the idle is set at 800 and will idle fine, then There is a glitch in the system. I'm running a 408 sbc. As inconvenient as it might seem, I'd recommend keeping a timing light handy and checking your timing during the high idle condition and then again after restarting. Once it commands that high idle I haven't found anything to return it to normal, other than shutting it down and restarting. Pricing was reasonable, shipping was prompt and Chris helped me with a wiring question during my install. Since a key cycle resets it to 0 and out to 30 or wherever Then your low idle problem will go away. But, whether your vendor provides you with tech support or sends you to Holley, I'd start by getting them a data log and asking for some insight. If you did not rotate the distributor to set the actual timing to 15 that might be the only issue. Hello Chris. I'm compltely stumped and my wife is certainly upset I'm spending so much time between the garage and the computer for something that should basically run out of the box. PDF Sensor Diagnostics and Statuses - Holley Perfectif you have the original synchronous linkage. He said they have been having an issue with these lately. I'm new to EFI and have no idea what to try next. It could be a problem with the power/ground for the Sniper but much more commonly this is a result of too much RFI. When I put it in park the idle RPM was 2100-2200 each time. https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/19210007.html, http://forums.holley.com/showthread.3128#post83128, If this is your first visit, be sure to Sorry I didn't buy from you but I didn't know you had sold them. It won't take much! So I have been doing the slow take offs and thinking that it would learn its way out. (I'm running from a fuel cell on the garage floor 10 feet away with lines in plain sight and do see fuel coming from the return at a decent flow. But when you have it then you can look for exactly what the IAC is doing at that point, and if there is anything that might lead to this happening. This is actually more troubling than the sound you originally described. That is the default "Clear Flood" TPS setting and turns all fuel off until the engine cranks. i would have been happy to answer there. You have to remove all hoses in order to debug the problem. Holley Sniper EFI Troubleshooting Mudford Garage 8.6K subscribers 38K views 3 years ago My Bronco with Holley Sniper EFI was running poorly. I have tried your 10-step idle adjust and ive adjusted the idle curve. As far as the timing light, I don't know, because I was having problems getting it to work, and that's where I stopped. There's nothing wrong with manual tuning, but at this point that is just compensating for an inadequate fuel map. Target AFR at idle is 13.8%. Hey Chris! And, while that is happening, make a note of the temperature before you engage the starter, and then the rpm when it starts.The Idle Parked Position is set on a temperature-based graph like the Idle Speed Curve. Across the board, all of our customers say how impressed they were that it started and ran right out of the box just by following the simple installation instructions. No matter what do, my idle will not drop below 1350-1400 RPM when the engine warms. It then idles up from 750 to 1100. Cycling the power to the Sniper EFI would cure the problem, but not prevent it from coming back. I set the AFR at 13.5 and all is good now. I've tried repeatedly re-creating the scenario in hopes that the E.C.M. 2. Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. The learn percentage should gradually decrease to virtually nothing as the map plus learn table begin to get more and more accurate to your specific setup. Hi. I did check for the lightning under the hood but all was well. This is a mighty big subject for a blog post reply, I should probably start doing some videos on this. close to idle with the IAC between 2% & 12%. Let's start by not assuming anything. My problem is low idle. Doesn't want to start, runs like crap. Even though you think your timing is perfect I'd suggest you try cranking about 5-10 degrees of advance into the distributor and just see if that doesn't work better for you.Remember this: adjustable timing pointers go out of adjustment and harmonic balancers slip. This is extremely unreliable afrer warm. Thanks. Reply Quote. Idle > IAC Kick. This will go a long way to improving your fuel map without manually adjusting the acceleration enrichment. )So before I hook up another gauge to see if the Auto Meter is bad (assuming I can find a 0-100 test gauge in my shop). You can manually set it 57 after you run the Wizard if required. Resistance results in heat and heat results in more resistance. This only happens when coming to a stop and the idle is ramping down to the set idle RPM. However based on your reply I connected the Fuel Pressure gauge and With an assistant pressing the accelerator, you need to make sure that when the accelerator is pressed to WOT that the throttle blades are fully opened, and when accelerator is lifted the linkage is fully at rest against the idle speed screw. You might even want to add our 4-foot extension harness that will allow you to connect/disconnect the display or CAN-to-USB adapter from inside the car (rather than trying to do that leaning over the engine and under the breather. Capability Range: Professional If either of these is not the case it must be remedied.After you have done this then you might want to involve Holley Tech Support about the TPS, or it may be easier/faster just to visit the local auto parts store and pick up a new TPS and install it. Now I have most of the bugs worked out it runs fine on the highway and around town it's just the idle. Intermittent stalling usually points to radio frequency or electro-magnetic intereference (RFI/EMI). Should it not do the opposite and do this on a cold start not warm. OK, I did the baseline idle speed screw setting. If you have performed the adjustments above and still have RPM issues, it's time to look for clues. I'm also having a high idle problem but its different. carburetor setup, but it does blow when I can't jump on the highway like I use Key, I believe, in this success is solid connections, resistance-free signal and ground paths, and solid RFI rejection. Ive played with the timing on this thing multiple times.Car was fullly restored last year. Your AFR is pegged lean. One of the great features of Holley's Sniper is the ability to set your air/fuel ratio (AFR) where you want it. Have a look--I think this is going to allow you to fix your idle problem. I will turn it up some. Drive great and idles perfect at stop signs. Hey Chris As I said above, you could have a bad IAC, but then again, the IAC might be fine and there's a deeper problem such as RFI noise causing the issue or a vacuum leak that is confusing things. The fix? Honestly, I've never seen this happen but if the butterflies were misaligned on the shafts it could allow too much air to enter. Repeat until that stumble goes away, and then try a bit more throttle. Everything was working perfectly and I shut off the engine. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is jumping around from 35 to 60. My car will not idle right until it gets to around 130 -140 degrees. Hi Chris thanks in advance for any tips. Can the return line be an issue?So far this sounds like an ideal setup.>I have had 2 faulty gpa-4 255 walbro pumps go bad. After talking to Holley tech, I replaced the factory regulator and problem solved.The regulator had what appeared to be a film or something almost clear embedded in some of the screen, maybe from factory or from install, but that was my issue.PS : this page and other forums have helped me a lot. Hello Chris. Now that you've got your IAC set I'm going to recommend that you run your setup wizard again, which will reset the ECU to the default settings. That, on top of your air leak, is allowing the engine to idle at 2400 RPM. Ultimately, it is about making the pedal softer, particularly at initial throttle opening. However, I have what I will call a whistle at a throttle position on 35 - 50. Also, I was seriously rich at idleso rich it hurt your eyes. Hello, I am having a tps and idle issue. Um, no. This will tell us if the ECU thinks that it is in control of setting the idle or if it thinks that you are driving the engine speed with the pedal. During after-start idle, the idle will jump up to about 70% if the engine is cold, stay there about 4 seconds and then ramp down to the target idle speed for the current engine temperature. Sniper EFI offers superior throttle response and wide-open throttle power. Which means you either need to increase that number or increase the ramp decay time. And the rather cavalier "Absolutely!" Properly configured, the Sniper does a fantastic job of responding to the transition from Park to Drive. Then a little faster--until bogs at that level work themselves out. I did notice that when I thought I had it set If you use your handheld to go here: issue. Look over all of your vacuum lines and fittings. The Sniper EFI replacement throttle body for Autolite 1100 carburetors will be right at home on most early in-line 6 cylinder powered grocery getters or weekend cruisers. And thanks again for taking your time to answer these questions. Note that sometimes you can get into a back-and-forth situation. I think that your Sniper system is working fine but would definitely check ouf the fuel pump. Bottom line ismy first one must have been faulty. I've been messing around for a bit trying to eliminate any possible vacuum leaks. One way is to very carefully watch the handheld monitor, and that may be adequate. *Possible delays due to Covid-19 click for more information. (Don't drive and watch--get a helper!) If the vendor from whom you bought the system is coming up blank on ideas then don't hesitate to contact Holley's outstanding tech support department directly at 866-464-6553. Contact whomever sold you your system or Holley directly. Thank you. I would suspect something is coming loose causing a stop to the EFI system/Fuel flow. Sniper EFI Idle Tuning - Holley Motor Life All times are GMT-6. This is Intermittent meaning, I can run this test 5 times and IAC will function incorrectly 2 out of the 5 times. I did change the -40 thing also. It's not that they (or any other manufacturer) is 100% perfect. When I covered the IAC with my finger, the RPM dropped so low it stalled. Relatively new Sniper EFI install on a '69 Mustang 302. Start with the most gradual throttle input you need to launch well, then slightly increase until you feel some stumble. I don't want to go on too long here but once you know if you're trying to add or remove fuel, there are a couple of ways to go. Did your process to adjust idle to 860. The Sniper Quick-Start Manual provides the following instructions for setting the idle. So you installed your Holley Sniper. Or, at least, it should. It then started working normally again. RPM = 1200My slow gear I leave with 650 RPM, the IAC Position I leave between 5 and 6%, the Be aware that there is a spring behind there and a diaphragm that you don't want to tear. So, if pressing the throttle is making it start, it's because you're flooded.Which is consistent with your rich idle condition comment, right? First, let me congratulate you on your patience in letting the system learn. engine works beautiful, the car runs a lot, but suddenly, the engine does that. What can I do? My dad wanted to recheck the timing so I set the Static Timing at 15 and it runs perfect. If Or alternator? In the context of the Sniper the AFR that is being displayed is the AFR of ethanol-free gasoline based on the lambda that is being read by the AFR. What should I be looking at to calm this down? When I cover it with my hands, it gets quieter. IAC Testing Procedure for EFI Systems Some have suggested the gasket might cause it but I've never heard of anyone fixing the whistle by adjusting the gasket (and many have tried. At that point the tps is pretty high, then shut the ignition off, pull the tape restart the engine and idle goes into hold mode and idle is through the roof. Shutoff engine wait 30 seconds, turn key wait for display to come up, start engine. If your fuel pressure is at or about 60 PSI then visually inspect the barrels of the throttle body while having someone key on the Sniper. It didnt do this with the carb on it. Im thinking a faulty TPS. I have certainly seen this before on other fuel injected vehicles when hot. Though it started and ran good, it was dumping fuel and would not lean out to AFR set points. Once you have done this the challenge is to create a datalog that includes the ":snap" you describe. Holley will take a look and tell you you have RFI and wish you good luck in finding it. To figure this out it's going to be important to gather a bit more data. Holley Sniper EFI Self-Tuning Master Kit - Black Ceramic Finish (It should be at or near 60 PSI at idle. IAC Testing Procedure for EFI Systems If the issue persists, you may need to replace the IAC. Yes, you are correct. So this is my issue ( I did just email Holly). Let me be perfectly clear: If your engine will not drop below 1350 RPM with the idle speed screw turned all the way out then you have an air leak. I'm happy to walk you through what is required. Now it registers zero and I have good idle but it will not register until it hits 60 and up. The whole topic of using the Sniper TPS for transmission control is one deserving of it's own article but I'll try to summarize a bit here. Always had to set idle above 950. I have a bone stock 350 that I installed a Sniper on and had the same whistle noise, presumably from air going past the butterflies. If your fuel pressure regulator has failed (and they often fail by blocking return fuel and maxing your fuel pressure) then it could lead to rich idle, particularly until your engine gets up to temp. IAC Creeps To 100% - Holley Performance Products Forums First, check to make sure that the IAC is properly mounted and connected. TPS% = 1 )Then look a the datalog and find out what TPS ROC and MAP ROC is most likely to cause the problem. Shut off the engine, ensure power to the Sniper is switched off. Just getting it to act right at startup is a struggle. knowledge with the sniper efi setup. If not then I think you are going to find that this will solve much of your problem. At that point, with 90 PSI of fuel, the ECU can't turn the duty cycle down low enough to idle properly. Generally, one of two things: a stuck throttle or noise on the TPS signal. Your task will be to find that. It might be necessary to insulate or re-route your fuel lines if this can't be solved any other way. After speaking with Holley Tech Support and Tech Support from where I purchased the systemthey decided to replace it. Thanks for any help. See these. :-). With everything else being right and since you can make it start by adding fuel it seems like you must have some sort of fuel pressure issue. I ask because I'm using a PCV valve with my Sniper and have random idle issues as well. Using the handheld, navigate to Tuning > Basic > Basic Idle and ensure your target idle speed is set to the RPM you desire. The noise changes sound with the throttle position. The small rubber plug had a leak. If you have somehow overlooked this, start here: Holley Idle Speed Adjustment Instructions: Once the engine is up to operating temperature, the idle speed can be set to what was configured in the Wizard. Member List; Calendar; Forum; Holley EFI; Sniper EFI; If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. If I put the vehicle in gear the idle gets higher with temp. With the engine still idling high park, set the brake, open the hood, and remove the air cleaner. You can re-enable this after you have completed this idle speed adjustment process. I put it in neutral and the idle RPM had increased to 2100-2200. Next, clean the IAC and all related parts with brake cleaner. Yes, let me know how that setup process works. Thank you chris for for getting back to me on this matter.I'm using russell hi pressure gas line to feed the gas up to the sniper and using the stock steel gas line that use to be the feed line for the carb to return the gas to the tank. This page was generated at 12:25 AM. When this occurs, I sometimes can shut it down and it will return to the correct settiings. I did read some comments on regulator issues is there a way to check it for an issue ? The 5-6 times it has happened now have been after the car has been running for at least 20 minutes. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. Stupid question, but where do I see if it's entering Learn mode? Throttle Tip-In tuning can be a bit of a challenge but I'm confident you can get this resolved, Mike.Let me start by saying that unless you've really done a lot of driving on the system in some useful learning situations then I would set this issue aside and not even think about it. Even though the Sniper's fuel map is programmed to provide the correct amount of fuel via injectors spraying at 60 PSI, if the pressure is jacked up to 90 PSI the wideband sees that you are rich and faster than you can even detect it audibly lowers the duty cycle to inject the correct amount of fuel. Hi Chris. Technically it is a warranty-voiding maneuver so proceed at your own risk. I've increased the IAC rampdown time to 8 seconds to try to combat this, but wondering if it will correct itself over time or if I need to possibly replace this TP sensor. If you haven't installed a I've been having problems with my sniper efi just shutting off. He is able to get it to start by quickly depressing the accelerator to at least 60% and releasing. You're going to have to get this fixed or it's going to cause even more problems than the high idle. If I go any more it will ping. Wish I had bought my sniper from you, but unfortunately didnt. Tuning > Advanced > Adv Idle > IAC Startup I hope everyone enjoys this v. To finish, I rather tightly twisted the TPS signal and ground wires all the way from the controller to the Sniper TPS and very carefully routed them away from sources of RFI. If I rev the engine a couple times in neutral it will finally return to idle & usually will not do it again for the rest of my trip. Somehow air is entering the engine that was not entering the engine when you originally set the idle speed screw. The Super Sniper will allow you to monifor fuel pressure if you add an electronic sender but this is not an option with the standard Sniper. One thing you need to sync the timing and set the inductive delay. I think that a great number of the challenges that Sniper EFI System Owners face are brought on themselves by getting into the control settings before the system has really had a chance to learn. Engine warms up to 195 degrees and stays. The biggest issue is these problems are intermittent meaning they do not occur all the time. Thanks Again for your help. The broad consensus has been that the Sniper is an amazingly straight-forward install and starts and tunes as expected. When this happens, it is impossible to convince the Sniper ECU to allow the RPM to drop below a set RPM--regardless of what the target idle speed setting is. Im not sure what its doing, have messed with after start fuel, fuel at cranking. How can I adjust the startup speed down to about 1400 RPM?

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